Building Project: Desk Lamp

I have been putting up with the fact that the left half of my desk is not well lit. When I do paperwork or a project on that half of the desk I’m always struggling to have enough light even with the overhead light and every other light on in the room. I found myself looking at buying a desk lamp similar to the one I have on the right side of the desk and then I though “I just made a lamp, why don’t I just make one, I have left over materials, how hard can it be…” I drew a very rudimentary sketch…

I had a brainwave about how to electrify the lamp: I would use LED under-cabinet puck lights! It turns out these come in packs of three with all the wiring, power supply, and even a switch and in the case of the one I bought a remote control.

So I built the following lamp…

The “shade” is a glue-up of white oak and strips of white oak and black mesquite to give it a striped effect on the top. I beveled the edges on the table saw and then rounded them on the sanding station. I mitered a thin frame around the base of the “shade” to hide the LED pucks. The “neck” is made by cutting a dado into to halves of the neck and then gluing them up to leave a void for the wiring to run through. The base and feet are white oak and the black mesquite brackets are actually the offcuts from the brackets on my floor lamp.

I just had to shorten and solder the wiring ( it was meant to reach across several kitchen cabinets ) and fish it through the neck and then stick the pucks to the underside of the “shade” It works great and lights my desk perfectly and the remote allows it to be turned on and off and dimmed from across the room.

Building Project: Morris Chair

I’ve been a fan of Craftsman style furniture and architecture ( Mission and Stickley are also terms folks use ) and a long time ago ( on the order of twenty-five years ) I got a book about Craftsman furniture called “MAKING AUTHENTIC CRAFTSMAN FURNITURE, Instructions and Plans for 62 Projects, Articles from The Craftsman edited by Gustav Stickley.” I love most of the furniture in the book, but I have always wanted a Morris Chair ( the one in the book is Stickley’s interpretation of a William Morris design ). I am very happy to say that the convergence of skills, tools, time and resources has given me the opportunity to build one.

The article about the Morris Chair in the book is a whopping one paragraph, a cut list, and a one page measured drawing with no details of joints or very much construction advice at all. In a way this was sorta motivational for me because I often get frustrated trying to follow someone else’s detailed instructions. I do better applying technique to a higher level plan and improvising.

I came up with a revised cut list based on what I could get from vendors and I ordered a bunch of 13/16” x 5” quarter sawn white oak. This was a little intimidating since it isn’t cheap ( especially if you have to have them mill it to size for you ) and it focuses one on not fucking up and wasting any of it. I have to say that white oak is just fantastic to work with. It cuts, drills, chisels and sands beautifully. The only surprise was that after working with it without gloves for a day my hands were almost black from the tannin in the wood. I learned however that lemon juice removes the stain very easily.

I glued up blanks for the legs which required some precision and extra clamping fixtures to try and get all the sides perfectly lined up ( since I don’t have a planer/joiner ). It worked out pretty well, the small variations I was able to clean up with the belt sander.

This was the first project I had that really used the drill press in anger. I used forstner bits to do most of the mortising and cobbled up various clamping fixtures to hold the pieces getting mortised in place for the operations. I also sharpened the chisels that I had and got a set of new ones to get the sizes I would need for cleaning up the various sized mortises. There were a lot of joints to do so my skills got better and better as I went along. I did the tenons using a combination of the table saw for the shoulder cuts and the band saw with a 1/2” blade with 14 teeth per inch for the cheek cuts. My precision has improved a lot since the Nightstand project. This was the first time I did tenons that interfered with each other so I learned to notch them so that they could pass each other in the mortise.

I got very comfortable with dry-fitting everything repeated and checking it for square and fit etc… I have assembled this chair probably dozens of times now. I simplified the frets on the sides of the chair because I didn’t like the pattern from the article at the scale they had it. I also substituted a slatted seat cushion support instead of a woven seat support because I like a firmer seat on my furniture.

In researching finishes for the chair I came across Danish Oil by WATCO and I have to say that I’m in love. Compared to everything else I’ve ever used, the process to get a nice looking finish with this stuff is very straightforward. I also sanded all of the pieces through 120,150, and 220 grit before assembly which took a while but also allowed me to be more thorough and consistent than any finish before now. I also masked off the joints during the glue up and had very little glue cleanup as a result.

Hero tools on this project were my new Starrett combinations square ( actually accurate down to 64ths ) and the Precision Engineer's Square Set from Groz both of which allowed me to get everything fitting and square to much better precision. The Groz squares are also great for making sure that your table saw, band saw, drill press, and miter saw are all actually square to their respective tables.

The next skill expansion is going to be perhaps learning how to use the sewing machine. My lovely and talented wife is going to teach me while we make the seat cushions for the chair. I’m waiting for a shipment of the foam so I’ll have some time to find the fabric and do something else for a bit. I’m really looking forward to lounging in this chair in my office and reading many many books in it.

The next project on the horizon is making a decorative dice box for aforementioned lovely and talented wife. Her return to playing RPGs has also brought on a dice collecting habit.

See you next time…

Building Project: Mailbox

We just had the house re-sided and all the trim replaced. The place looks brand new and fabulous, we’re very happy. I was not happy to put our beat-up mailbox back on the house. So, I decided to fix my several gripes with the mailbox by building one. I wanted one that would comfortably fit 8 1/2 x 11 magazines and envelopes and completely contain an extra day’s mail or so if needed. I wanted it to protect the mail from rain and snow and be easy to look down inside of. These were all things that our old mailbox had failed to do for some twenty-five years… yes, yes, I can hold a grudge for quite some time.

I measured the space that we had to work with and created a simple design. I also made a chipboard mock-up of the box to get my wife’s approval and to confirm the usability. I used off-cuts of the 1/2” maple plywood that I’ve been building lots of stuff from. I even put a nice 1/4” pine plywood floating bottom in it with drainage holes in case water should ever get inside. I cut rabbets into the front and the back to receive the sides and a 1/4” dado around the bottom inside to receive the bottom. I glued it up and it is solid as heck.

Two hinges (recessed) hold the top which is beveled and cut to overhang on all sides and then I made some plates to hold some transparent flexible plastic as a protective “shingle” to keep blowing rain from getting in from the top. I primed the whole thing with my new best friend latex primer and then a couple of finish coats of a pretty gray acrylic latex exterior paint ( actually the original trim color on the house).

I just screwed it to the house through the 1” extension of the back above and below the mailbox.

Here is the design drawing and the pictures:

I’m really happy with how it came out, and it is performing very well.

The next project is going to be a big one. I’m going to build a Morris Chair for my office. This is an image from “MAKING AUTHENTIC CRAFTSMAN FURNITURE Instructions and Plans for 62 Projects Articles from The Craftsman edited by GUSTAV STICKLEY”:

I’ve wanted to make one of these for easily twenty years or more and I’ve had that book for probably that long. It’ll be made out of quarter sawn white oak and just yesterday I sucked it up to order the milled lumber that I’ll need. This is going to be a challenging one, but hopefully it’ll be a great chair to sit and read in when I’m done.

I’ll share my progress, that’s all for now…

Building Project: Nightstand completed

I finished up the nightstand project that I started last post . Along the way I acquired a nice Bosch router and router table. So nice to have the proper tools for the job. I cut all of the mortises for the panels and rails using the router table. I’m still learning the right depth of cut and rate of feed, but it is getting better. There was also a lot of planning and precision and I leveled up in that area as well. I made some mistakes, but none are visible and none caused any structural problems. I also improved my painting methodology by sanding after priming before the finish color, the finish is much smoother than prior pieces. I’m still working on my brush skills and using an even amount of paint etc… but improving.

All in all I’m very happy with how well the design came out and the customer (my wife) is also very pleased.

Building Project: Library Step and starting a Nightstand

My lovely wife mentioned that she would like another library step ( a small two step stool for reaching the upper shelves of libraries) for our library as she uses the existing one in her office. We have many many books and book shelves. Since we already had one, I stole all the critical dimensions off of it. It was 3/4” material, about 15 inches tall, two steps about 7 inches deep. I didn’t have any 3/4” material but I did have a bunch of 1/2” maple furniture grade plywood. For the first time, I cut out all of the blanks I needed from the 1/2” plywood doubled and glued them up into approximately 1” thickness though technically it was probably 3/4” since 1/2” plywood is really 3/8”… anyway… I was able to square up the pieces on the table saw and I taped the sides together and did the layout right on the wood itself. I cut most of the profile on the bandsaw, until I snapped the blade by turning too tightly in thick material. I finished the last couple of cuts with a hand coping saw… less fun than you think.

After lots of sanding and shaping I glued and screwed it together using countersunk screws and I filled the screw heads with stain-able wood filler. I stained the whole thing with a dark walnut stain and then clear coated it with a spray clear coat. I’m still getting the hang of stain and how to get it to be even, so in this case I sorta leaned into the flaws I saw developing and went for an antique distressed look. I’m happy with how it came out and it is very sturdy and useful.

Following on that I decided to make a nightstand for next to our bed to replace a crude old shelf we’ve been using for 30 plus years… I decided that I wanted to make this one more based on joinery and so I designed a nice side table with legs, a drawer at the top, and a shelf in the middle as well as a top that was covered in felt. I did do some drawing for this one since the dimensions were critical and the joinery was going to be complicated.

The frame is soft maple and the panels are furniture grade maple plywood, the shelf, drawer, and top will probably be sanded pine plywood with the top framed with soft maple. I’m in progress working on it right now, and I’m learning a lot. I’ve seen joinery and such done many times before but this is my first time doing it. I haven’t messed anything outwardly visible up yet which I’m very proud of.

As part of this project I got a new high quality router and a router table. Excellent addition to the shop and it made a lot of the mortising much easier than it would have been. I’ve got some more wood on order and I need to do the drawer, shelf, bottom and back. I’ll report on progress as it happens.

Building Project: Completed Library/Guest Room Sofa-bed with Cedar Chest Headboard

A week or so ago the mattress that I ordered for the Sofa-bed got manufactured and delivered. I was able to go on and do the adjustments and tweaks to the project with it in place. After establishing that it fit perfectly and that it would fold around the slat frame as designed I first worked on getting the alignment of the trundle to the fixed frame correct.

I had essentially guessed at the mounting position of the casters on the trundle based on pressing one into the carpet. I couldn’t press hard enough to simulate someone sitting or lying on top of it so I was off by about 1/4” and so the trundle was scraping the carpet after being pressed down with enough weight. I uninstalled it and flipped it over and added strips of 1/2” plywood under the casters and then I used the adjustable feet in the fixed base to get the perfect alignment so that the trundle slides in and out easily.

I then added the pins to the front of the trundle to connect it to the last section of slat frame. This worked great and keeps the slats aligned and they move consistently with the trundle when opening and closing. You can still raise and lower the seat to get into the storage in the trundle and the seat just drops back on the pins. I may epoxy the pins into the trundle at some point but it might not be necessary.

Next, I added the locks on the front of the trundle to ensure that it wouldn’t roll out when the sofa-bed was closed.

Finally, I installed the reading lamps with USB charging ports on either side of the headboard.

The next thing was to attach the mattress to the slats frame so it would bend the right ways when we closed the sofa bed. I had thought that since it was a sofa-bed mattress it would come with some kind of straps or ties already attached to it, I was wrong. So, plan-B was to order a custom futon cover and my very talented wife modified it by making and attaching ties to the cover at all the positions we needed. I installed D-rings around the sides and top of the slats frame to tie them to. It works great, not pulling too hard but keeping the mattress in place and curved around the slats frame as it is closed or opened.

So it is essentially complete and in use, we’ve put away the guest bedding in the headboard cedar chest, and some framed pictures and other stuff in the storage under the seat. I may come back and just round some of the outer corners of the slats frame and perhaps do more about the opening/closing process. I think we’re going to see how things go for a bit in order to decide.

I’m really happy about how this came out and how well the design plan worked out in actual implementation. That’s it until the next project!