Building Project: Library Step and starting a Nightstand

My lovely wife mentioned that she would like another library step ( a small two step stool for reaching the upper shelves of libraries) for our library as she uses the existing one in her office. We have many many books and book shelves. Since we already had one, I stole all the critical dimensions off of it. It was 3/4” material, about 15 inches tall, two steps about 7 inches deep. I didn’t have any 3/4” material but I did have a bunch of 1/2” maple furniture grade plywood. For the first time, I cut out all of the blanks I needed from the 1/2” plywood doubled and glued them up into approximately 1” thickness though technically it was probably 3/4” since 1/2” plywood is really 3/8”… anyway… I was able to square up the pieces on the table saw and I taped the sides together and did the layout right on the wood itself. I cut most of the profile on the bandsaw, until I snapped the blade by turning too tightly in thick material. I finished the last couple of cuts with a hand coping saw… less fun than you think.

After lots of sanding and shaping I glued and screwed it together using countersunk screws and I filled the screw heads with stain-able wood filler. I stained the whole thing with a dark walnut stain and then clear coated it with a spray clear coat. I’m still getting the hang of stain and how to get it to be even, so in this case I sorta leaned into the flaws I saw developing and went for an antique distressed look. I’m happy with how it came out and it is very sturdy and useful.

Following on that I decided to make a nightstand for next to our bed to replace a crude old shelf we’ve been using for 30 plus years… I decided that I wanted to make this one more based on joinery and so I designed a nice side table with legs, a drawer at the top, and a shelf in the middle as well as a top that was covered in felt. I did do some drawing for this one since the dimensions were critical and the joinery was going to be complicated.

The frame is soft maple and the panels are furniture grade maple plywood, the shelf, drawer, and top will probably be sanded pine plywood with the top framed with soft maple. I’m in progress working on it right now, and I’m learning a lot. I’ve seen joinery and such done many times before but this is my first time doing it. I haven’t messed anything outwardly visible up yet which I’m very proud of.

As part of this project I got a new high quality router and a router table. Excellent addition to the shop and it made a lot of the mortising much easier than it would have been. I’ve got some more wood on order and I need to do the drawer, shelf, bottom and back. I’ll report on progress as it happens.

Building Project: Completed Library/Guest Room Sofa-bed with Cedar Chest Headboard

A week or so ago the mattress that I ordered for the Sofa-bed got manufactured and delivered. I was able to go on and do the adjustments and tweaks to the project with it in place. After establishing that it fit perfectly and that it would fold around the slat frame as designed I first worked on getting the alignment of the trundle to the fixed frame correct.

I had essentially guessed at the mounting position of the casters on the trundle based on pressing one into the carpet. I couldn’t press hard enough to simulate someone sitting or lying on top of it so I was off by about 1/4” and so the trundle was scraping the carpet after being pressed down with enough weight. I uninstalled it and flipped it over and added strips of 1/2” plywood under the casters and then I used the adjustable feet in the fixed base to get the perfect alignment so that the trundle slides in and out easily.

I then added the pins to the front of the trundle to connect it to the last section of slat frame. This worked great and keeps the slats aligned and they move consistently with the trundle when opening and closing. You can still raise and lower the seat to get into the storage in the trundle and the seat just drops back on the pins. I may epoxy the pins into the trundle at some point but it might not be necessary.

Next, I added the locks on the front of the trundle to ensure that it wouldn’t roll out when the sofa-bed was closed.

Finally, I installed the reading lamps with USB charging ports on either side of the headboard.

The next thing was to attach the mattress to the slats frame so it would bend the right ways when we closed the sofa bed. I had thought that since it was a sofa-bed mattress it would come with some kind of straps or ties already attached to it, I was wrong. So, plan-B was to order a custom futon cover and my very talented wife modified it by making and attaching ties to the cover at all the positions we needed. I installed D-rings around the sides and top of the slats frame to tie them to. It works great, not pulling too hard but keeping the mattress in place and curved around the slats frame as it is closed or opened.

So it is essentially complete and in use, we’ve put away the guest bedding in the headboard cedar chest, and some framed pictures and other stuff in the storage under the seat. I may come back and just round some of the outer corners of the slats frame and perhaps do more about the opening/closing process. I think we’re going to see how things go for a bit in order to decide.

I’m really happy about how this came out and how well the design plan worked out in actual implementation. That’s it until the next project!

Building Project: Library/Guest Room Sofa-bed with Cedar Chest Headboard

Whew this was the most complex project I’ve attempted to date, it has a bunch of engineering elements to it, and more requirements for precision. The goal for this project was to build a custom sofa-bed that would fit in the corner of our guest room/library and allow a queen sized bed. I also wanted to provide storage for blankets inside a cabinet in the headboard and also storage under the seat. Finally, I wanted to make it relatively easy to extend and then to put back.

You can see the design drawings that I made below:

The first project was to build the triangular cabinet which fits into the corner of the guest room between two book shelves and provides a head board for the bed as well as storage for bedding and other woolens inside. Note that we’re going to also put USB charging reading lights on top, one on each side. This was challenging to frame because the sides of the triangle aren’t the same length so the angles were 90, 42, and 48 respectively. Cutting these odd angles was challenging as was getting the dimensions just right. Because the case was so large I made it so that it could be built in the shop and then disassembled and then finally assembled up in the room. I’ll say that it is quite overbuilt as it has an internal frame of 2x4’s that are skinned on the outside with 1/2” sanded pine plywood and on the inside with chipped cedar paneling to form a cedar chest. The next project that I do I’m going to try and work on lighter simpler structure, but this is my skill level at the moment and it works for me. I put leveling feet on the base to allow it to sit nicely on the carpeted floor. I primed and painted the plywood panels before assembling them in the room and then I just finish-screwed them on and filled the screw holes and sanded/touched up those areas.

Cutting the hole and fitting the door for the cedar chest was some new router skills that I still need to work on. It came out ok, but I definitely need more practice cutting clean accurate holes and counter-sinks with the router.

Here’s the construction sequence gallery for the headboard:

The second project was to build the fixed base for the sofa bed. This is a U-shaped frame that sticks out from the headboard into the room. It provides the support for the upper part of the bed when extended. The lower end of the bed rides on a trundle that rolls out of the fixed base on one-way industrial casters. This part was relatively easy to build since it was all right angles. I did get a bunch of practice cutting panels out of sheets of plywood using a combination of hand held circular saw and the table saw. I got a lot better at it over the course of this project and I feel much more confident with this skill. I also shifted from painting the panels with a brush to painting them with a 7” roller and that was a huge improvement in both time efficiency and quality of finish. My next project, I’m going to sand the piece after the initial coat of primer since it raises the grain on the plywood and I think I’d get a smoother finish if I did this. However, it doesn’t look bad at all unless you really get close to it and compare it to the professionally built book cases in the library.

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The next step of the project was to build the trundle that rolls out of the fixed base and extends the bed. Again this wasn’t too bad in terms of framing. The only complexity was that it is shorter at the back than the front to allow for it to pass under the stretcher that helps keep the base from bowing outward. It is also set up at the height of the casters, about 3 1/2” above the ground. I put in three one way casters on each side. Since they are in the same line they actually help make the trundle move straight in and out. The side panels are full height to hide the casters and make a uniform front on the sofa bed when it is closed. I put recessed handles into the front of the trundle to make pulling on it easier. There is a 2x2 cleat around the inside bottom of the trundle to support a plywood bottom making the interior into a large drawer for storage. The seat will hinge up at the front to allow access.

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Finally I built the slat frame that hinges and supports the mattress ( on order, it takes a while to get one…). This was straightforward and constructed out of 1 x 4 pine stock. It attaches to the fixed frame at the top using some nylon webbing ( like what backpack straps are made of ) to allow it to be tethered in a flexible way when folded up but also to not slide off the base when extending or closing the bed. It is tethered in a similar way to the trundle and the back allowing the panel to act as a cover for the drawer that can be opened with the bed extended or folded. It is very firm and stable when deployed or folded and I’m really happy with it. It handles my considerable bulk without too much flex or movement.

I have a few things left to do. Once the mattress shows up I need to do any adjustments to accommodate it ( the mattress is a memory foam replacement sofa-bed wide queen mattress 60 x 72 ). There is currently and issue with the height of the trundle relative to the height of the fixed frame that makes it difficult to extend and close the bed smoothly. I have two adjustments I can make, there are leveling feet on the fixed base which I can adjust and I can also add a spacer under the caster bases to change the height of the trundle. I may also add some small guide wheels inside the fixed base front to help guide the trundle straight when you’re closing it.

I’ll install the reading lights last so that they’re not in the way in case I have to move the headboard case around or do any adjustment there.

I’ll post some final pictures when I do all of that!

Building Project: Shop Expansion

As I mentioned in my previous post I have a furniture project coming up to build a custom convertible sofa bed for our library/guest room. Before that I needed to add some new tools to my shop and give them someplace to live. One important feature is a sliding compound power miter saw station where the front of the bench provides the infeed/outfeed support for the miter saw. The bench will also have a ruler and an adjustable stop for the infeed of the miter saw. Because I was going to build new benches and such I also decided to add more storage. The storage is drawers, shelves, and pegboard to give everything I have a place to live, plus some extra capacity. I’ve never built or installed drawers before so this was also a skills upgrade. See the design drawing below for an idea of what I was shooting for…

Side, top, and front views of new bench design…

The first challenge was ordering all the stock and hardware for the new bench. I had two problems with my order. One was self-inflicted, I ordered the wrong length 2x4s due to clicking on an adjacent item in the online ordering system. The second one was the store’s problem, they omitted half my plywood and that was after a one day delay. The good news is that now I can go in person to the store and so I went and picked up the missing plywood and a bunch of additional 2x4s.

Some of my order…

Some of my order…

I set up a temporary miter saw station and my new table saw in the garage which is attached to the shop. This is probably where the table saw will always be used just for space reasons. I got a folding and roll away table saw so it can be out of the way when I’m not using it. Also, the car needs to go in the garage most of the time.

Temporary miter station and table saw station in the garage

Temporary miter station and table saw station in the garage

The first part of the build was to build the frame of the bench. I actually built it as three independent units and then connected them. Note the lowered section in the middle to allow the deck of the miter saw to line up with the surface of the bench. The miter saw made all the repeated cuts so easy and quick. Also it makes perfect consistent square cuts where I would probably have some “variation” using a hand held circular saw.

One unit of three…

One unit of three…

Three units framed and connected… ooh and my first drawer…

Three units framed and connected… ooh and my first drawer…

You can see my very first drawer in the image above. It was so cool to have a table saw and be able to rip all the sanded maple 1/2” plywood to the right dimension and then to length on the miter saw. I also made the dado in the drawer sides using the table saw, just putting each piece of stock through with the blade set to about 1/4” height and shifting it 1/16” for three passes. I was able to cut the drawer bottoms by just ripping the panels to the right width ( the inside width of the drawer plus 3/8” so it sits inside the dado). I used a very simple butt joint with glue and pre-drilled countersunk 1” screws. The drawer slides are nice 24” full extension slides so it’s easy to get to everything in the drawers. I intentionally set them back from the front of the unit so that there are still clamping surfaces and to protect them from getting sawdust and such into them. You can also see the bench tops which are two layers of 1/2 plywood.

All the drawers installed and the miter saw in it’s new home…

All the drawers installed and the miter saw in it’s new home…

The next part was to add the pegboard on 2/3 of the bench to hang up tools and some shelves on the last 1/3 of the bench to have some open shelf storage. There is also a shelf under the miter saw as well and floor storage under that. I also installed and set up the other tools: drill press and sanding station.

All the tools installed on the bench top, pegboard and shelves as well…

All the tools installed on the bench top, pegboard and shelves as well…

After putting stuff in the drawers and hanging up a bunch of tools, I installed the miter saw adjustable stop and ruler. I built a jig for my router and carefully routed a channel to install it after doing some work to level/flatten the infeed side of the bench. The stop came out great and it largely removes the need to measure and mark when I’m cutting multiple pieces.

Miter saw stop and ruler…

Miter saw stop and ruler…

So that’s the whole saga… It took about five days or so end to end and I think it is a good representation of my original design. I’m very happy with the functionality, the machines, and the storage. I’m reviewing my design for the bed project and I’ll probably get started on that in a week or so.

Miscellaneous projects...

I’m about to start a new construction project and it reminded me that I’ve done a few random projects and not posted about them at all… So, here’s a rundown of the small stuff…

Fixed the dimmer that didn’t work well for 20+ years…

In our dining room there was a weird dimmer switch that had a touch plate that was supposed to adjust by sliding your finger on it or something. It didn’t work right for two reasons. First, if you tapped it it was supposed to just turn on the light, it would often fail at this or leave the light flickering on and off. Second, I could find no reliable way to control the dimming with it, it either went full on suddenly or off to flickering… We lived with it since we moved into the house and I kept meaning to have and electrician replace it. Finally I got the courage together to replace the damn thing. It was actually very easy and the instructions for the new dimmer were very clear. The new dimmer is the proper rating for the LED lights in the fixture and had a normal on-off switch and slider for dimming. The hardest part was finding the circuit that this light was on, it wasn’t on anything labeled in our box as “dining room” and turned out to be on the circuit with the basement and some of the outlets in the kitchen ( wtf? ).

A normal functioning dimmer for the dining room…

A normal functioning dimmer for the dining room…

Fix the split in the front foyer door

Our front foyer door developed a split in the wood near the door knob a few ( 10, 15, who knows… ) years ago. And I attempted to glue it in the past and failed and had since just had some masking tape over it to prevent it catching on things. Don’t judge me. Recently, I cut out the damaged wood, made a patch and glued and fastened the patch in place with brads and sanded it flush with the original door. I even painted it to mostly match.

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Got the paper towel off the counter

For a couple of decades our paper towel in the kitchen has been on a vertical dispenser on the counter. I’ve always regretted that dispenser since it was always in the way or behind something. Also, it would move when you tried to pull paper towel off of it. I built a dispenser that could mount to the underside of the cabinet to solve this problem. It is better ( not perfect ) for one handed use, and it solves all the other problems. I used some old book shelf material I had in the scrap pile to build it and I painted it to match the cabinets.

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Converted Dana’s bike to grip shift

Even after the complete overhaul and rebuild last year, the shifters on Dana’s bike weren’t working correctly and they were making it hard for her to ride. I got some off the shelf grip shifters and replacement brake levers and replaced the original Shimano stuff. They work great and I was also able to adjust the pull on the brakes to make them a lot more aggressive. The shifters work with any Shimano drivetrain as long as it is a 3x7 setup. I also finally understood derailleur adjustment and was able to dial in the shifting. I got these cool purple grips as well that match the bike frame.

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Converted all of the lights in the basement to LED from fluorescent and added a bunch

I have wanted to add more lighting to the basement ( where my workshop is ) and had been dreading trying to lure an electrician out here to do a small job. One day I noticed that there was an old dead fixture up in the joist bay and it was still wired in to the main light switch in the basement. I removed it and got rid of it and converted that wiring to be a switched outlet. I then got these cool four foot LED shop lights that can daisy chain. I was able to add a bunch of them with no issues. Now I can see what I’m doing in the workshop which is wonderful.

I also replaced the old fluorescent bulbs in the existing fixtures with LED conversion bulbs

I also replaced the old fluorescent bulbs in the existing fixtures with LED conversion bulbs

Next project, shop expansion to do the next next project

After the hall cabinet project I realized that I needed some additional tools to do nicer and more precise projects more easily. I said that I would wait until I came up with a plan for another “upstairs quality” project and then I would expand the shop to do that one. The next next project that came up was to build a custom folding bed/couch for the guest room/library upstairs. It will have a storage chest as the headboard to store bedding and other linens and such. I’ve got the design drawn up and it will allow us to move from a “full” size futon bed to a “queen” size bed in our library. This will be nice for guests and for us since sometimes when one of us has a cold we sleep in there to let the other one get some rest. I’m also going to build some storage into the base as well.

But first I need to expand the shop so I got a nice sliding compound miter saw, a table saw on a folding rolling stand, a drill press, and a belt and disk sanding station. I’m going to build a miter saw bench that will also support the drill press and sanding station. The table saw folds up and gets stored across the room and most likely used in my garage since it won’t be much use in my shop space.

Picture a bench under these tools with a pegboard behind them and eight drawers underneath them ( I really need the storage ) and a nice 30x30 work surface at the end. The front edge of the bench will be kept clear and the miter saw recessed so that it’s deck is flush with the bench top and thus will form the infeed and outfeed for the miter saw. I’m even going to put T-track into the bench top with a removable stop and an embedded ruler on the infeed side for quick measuring and repeated cuts.

Ok, that’s the update, I’ll post about the shop project soon… I’m waiting for materials to be delivered today!