Building Project: TV Lift Case and Side Table

I’ve been wanting a larger TV for a while, we have a relatively small TV because it fits inside the old TV cabinet that we’ve had for quite a while. My beautiful and talented wife likes to be able to hide the TV when we’re not using it, so that is one constraint. Also, our house is relatively small and there is really only one spot in the living room where we can put the television. That space is limited in size. So, I came up with the idea of building a cabinet that was a nice display cabinet for some of our items we’ve collected in our travels while the rear part of the cabinet would hide a TV lift that would raise a 43 inch TV out of the back of the case and then it would swing forward on an armature to make viewing angle and distance very adjustable.

We also needed another side table in the living room with some storage, so I’m going to make that at the same time out of matching materials. Here’s the design I came up with:

Most of the furniture that is currently in the living room is a dark walnut finish so I’m going to make this furniture out of walnut as well. This is my first time using walnut and I’m excited to see how it comes out. The finish is probably going to be some combination of Danish Oil and Polyurethane… I think I’m going to have to experiment to see what color of Walnut Danish Oil I’m going to use. And I’m going to try the wipe on Polyurethane from WATCO to see if I can improve on my last effort.

The stock is in, sourced again from Boulter Plywood right in Medford, MA and it is lovely stuff…

There are some new tools on this build as well, I got some heavy duty panel clamps from Rockler which will help make the glue up for the tops of these cabinets flat and tight by clamping in four directions at once… ( I hope… )

Also, I got a table saw tenoning jig because apparently I’m going to be a mortise and tenon kind of person. I built one myself, but I didn’t provide for any fine adjustment in my design and it was just a little out of true and I realized I couldn’t afford tapered tenons… so I bought a machined cast iron one also from Rockler

And finally I got a two axis vice for my drill press. It is like a miniature milling table which has a vice at the top and then sliding ways that allow whatever is in the vice to be moved in x or y very precisely and without having to unclamp it. I usually do my mortises by using a forstner bit to remove most of the material on the drill press, drilling multiple holes in a row. This will hopefully speed up the process because I was previously clamping and unclamping the piece every time and also make it more precise by avoiding the errors that might crop up in that repeated process. I picked this up at Harbor Freight.

I’ve got the frame parts for both pieces cut to length and I’m about to start cutting all of the tenons… I’ll keep y’all posted on how things go…

A couple of small projects...

My beautiful and talented wife replaced one of her looms with a new one and she needed a stand and a tool trap for it. We’ve learned that the design of the one that was offered for it didn’t really hold the loom in position very well so instead of buying one I copied, resized, and adapted a stand that worked well on her larger loom. In addition I had some 1/4” steel rod which fit the holes on the front of the loom perfectly and I made the rails for a tool trap which she covered with some rip-stop nylon from an old garment bag. A tool trap is just a little hammock along the front of the loom to hold various weaving tools while you’re working.

I had a bunch of nice maple off cuts from the Sewing Table project so I was able to make it out of those. Couple of interesting things in the construction were cutting the slot in the top of the uprights and for the sliding adjustable front supports using my router table and doing through tenons both for the uprights and then through those tenons for the stretcher. I glued it up but I probably could have just wedged it given the way the tenons intersect. I sanded it to 320 grit and put a paste wax finish on it which is very smooth and silky.

I found some nice metric bolts in various sizes with knobs on them for the adjustable positioning elements and also to make the loom removable for storage or use on a tabletop.

The other project was also for my beautiful and talented wife and it was a frame for a cross stitch piece that she finished recently. I made the frame out of black mesquite with a natural danish oil finish. I’m getting better at frames, my miters were better on this one and the glue up and fastening was nicer. I used the frame clamping jig that I acquired after the last effort and that helped a lot. I just did a simple bevel detail on the inside of the frame which looks good.

I used an acid free double stick tape to mount the cross stitch to some foam core and then I put an art board spacer between it and the mat as was recommended in various guides I found online. I used acrylic for the “glass”. We blocked the cross stitch to get it reasonably flat and square


Building Project: Desk Lamp

I have been putting up with the fact that the left half of my desk is not well lit. When I do paperwork or a project on that half of the desk I’m always struggling to have enough light even with the overhead light and every other light on in the room. I found myself looking at buying a desk lamp similar to the one I have on the right side of the desk and then I though “I just made a lamp, why don’t I just make one, I have left over materials, how hard can it be…” I drew a very rudimentary sketch…

I had a brainwave about how to electrify the lamp: I would use LED under-cabinet puck lights! It turns out these come in packs of three with all the wiring, power supply, and even a switch and in the case of the one I bought a remote control.

So I built the following lamp…

The “shade” is a glue-up of white oak and strips of white oak and black mesquite to give it a striped effect on the top. I beveled the edges on the table saw and then rounded them on the sanding station. I mitered a thin frame around the base of the “shade” to hide the LED pucks. The “neck” is made by cutting a dado into to halves of the neck and then gluing them up to leave a void for the wiring to run through. The base and feet are white oak and the black mesquite brackets are actually the offcuts from the brackets on my floor lamp.

I just had to shorten and solder the wiring ( it was meant to reach across several kitchen cabinets ) and fish it through the neck and then stick the pucks to the underside of the “shade” It works great and lights my desk perfectly and the remote allows it to be turned on and off and dimmed from across the room.

Building Project: Morris Chair

I’ve been a fan of Craftsman style furniture and architecture ( Mission and Stickley are also terms folks use ) and a long time ago ( on the order of twenty-five years ) I got a book about Craftsman furniture called “MAKING AUTHENTIC CRAFTSMAN FURNITURE, Instructions and Plans for 62 Projects, Articles from The Craftsman edited by Gustav Stickley.” I love most of the furniture in the book, but I have always wanted a Morris Chair ( the one in the book is Stickley’s interpretation of a William Morris design ). I am very happy to say that the convergence of skills, tools, time and resources has given me the opportunity to build one.

The article about the Morris Chair in the book is a whopping one paragraph, a cut list, and a one page measured drawing with no details of joints or very much construction advice at all. In a way this was sorta motivational for me because I often get frustrated trying to follow someone else’s detailed instructions. I do better applying technique to a higher level plan and improvising.

I came up with a revised cut list based on what I could get from vendors and I ordered a bunch of 13/16” x 5” quarter sawn white oak. This was a little intimidating since it isn’t cheap ( especially if you have to have them mill it to size for you ) and it focuses one on not fucking up and wasting any of it. I have to say that white oak is just fantastic to work with. It cuts, drills, chisels and sands beautifully. The only surprise was that after working with it without gloves for a day my hands were almost black from the tannin in the wood. I learned however that lemon juice removes the stain very easily.

I glued up blanks for the legs which required some precision and extra clamping fixtures to try and get all the sides perfectly lined up ( since I don’t have a planer/joiner ). It worked out pretty well, the small variations I was able to clean up with the belt sander.

This was the first project I had that really used the drill press in anger. I used forstner bits to do most of the mortising and cobbled up various clamping fixtures to hold the pieces getting mortised in place for the operations. I also sharpened the chisels that I had and got a set of new ones to get the sizes I would need for cleaning up the various sized mortises. There were a lot of joints to do so my skills got better and better as I went along. I did the tenons using a combination of the table saw for the shoulder cuts and the band saw with a 1/2” blade with 14 teeth per inch for the cheek cuts. My precision has improved a lot since the Nightstand project. This was the first time I did tenons that interfered with each other so I learned to notch them so that they could pass each other in the mortise.

I got very comfortable with dry-fitting everything repeated and checking it for square and fit etc… I have assembled this chair probably dozens of times now. I simplified the frets on the sides of the chair because I didn’t like the pattern from the article at the scale they had it. I also substituted a slatted seat cushion support instead of a woven seat support because I like a firmer seat on my furniture.

In researching finishes for the chair I came across Danish Oil by WATCO and I have to say that I’m in love. Compared to everything else I’ve ever used, the process to get a nice looking finish with this stuff is very straightforward. I also sanded all of the pieces through 120,150, and 220 grit before assembly which took a while but also allowed me to be more thorough and consistent than any finish before now. I also masked off the joints during the glue up and had very little glue cleanup as a result.

Hero tools on this project were my new Starrett combinations square ( actually accurate down to 64ths ) and the Precision Engineer's Square Set from Groz both of which allowed me to get everything fitting and square to much better precision. The Groz squares are also great for making sure that your table saw, band saw, drill press, and miter saw are all actually square to their respective tables.

The next skill expansion is going to be perhaps learning how to use the sewing machine. My lovely and talented wife is going to teach me while we make the seat cushions for the chair. I’m waiting for a shipment of the foam so I’ll have some time to find the fabric and do something else for a bit. I’m really looking forward to lounging in this chair in my office and reading many many books in it.

The next project on the horizon is making a decorative dice box for aforementioned lovely and talented wife. Her return to playing RPGs has also brought on a dice collecting habit.

See you next time…